Archive for the ‘Football’ Category

Jan

12

A story from Donetsk

I finally got my hands on a copy of The Other Chelsea – A story from Donetsk, a documentary film by German director Jakob Preuss. Having lived in the Donbass region – where the film is set – for the past two years, I found it to be a very accurate and fair depiction of the culture and mindset that exists here in eastern Ukraine.

The film follows a Donetsk coal miner and a city assemblyman during the run-up to the UEFA Cup in 2009, which was won by Donetsk’s football team Shakhtar (Miners), owned by billionaire oligarch Rinat Akhmetov. The Other Chelsea examines the stark contrast of the region’s working class and political elite as well as that of east and west Ukraine.

With multiple film festival wins and nominations, The Other Chelsea is well worth the 86 minutes, especially if you’re interested in football, corruption and eastern Europe. The film is mostly in Russian, with some parts in German and English, but English subtitles are provided throughout.

Dec

08

“Ukrainian Express” to begin in May

Passengers board and de-board a train in Artemovsk. Most of the engines and wagons in Ukraine are decades old and slow.

Ukraine Vice-Premier and Infrastructure Minister Borys Kolesnikov said Tuesday that the first “Ukrainian Express” high-speed Hyundai trains will begin running May 15, 2012, with tickets available May 1, news agency Interfax-Ukraine reported.

The announcement was made in London at the Inside Ukraine conference organized by the Economist Magazine with the support of the Foundation for Effective Governance.

In December 2010, the State Rail Transport Administration Ukrzaliznytsia and the Hyundai Corporation signed a contract to supply 10 high-speed trains to Ukraine in order to transport guests visiting the 2012 UEFA European Football Championship. Kiev, Lviv, Kharkiv and Donetsk will all host matches in Ukraine.

Two of the high-speed trains are expected to be delivered to Ukrzaliznytsia by late February to early March 2012. The remaining eight trains should arrive in Ukraine in early May 2012.

The trains will be equipped with comfortable high-backed seats, televisions, spacious lavatories and even wheelchair access, which is absent from most of Ukraine’s currently operating trains.

A look at the trains’ designs can be seen over at tochka.net.

Apr

13

Living library

I spent last week at my friend Sam’s site in the small town of Shevchenkovo, about an hour southeast of Kharkov. He’d invited me and some other Peace Corps volunteers there to participate in a small project called Living Library. It’s a simple enough concept: American volunteers act as books, Ukrainian students play the role the readers. Really, though, it’s pretty much a group interview, wherein we, the Americans, are being drilled on matters of tradition, culture, travel, education and more. The point is to help broaden the horizons of small-town Ukrainian students by sharing with them parts of our lives in America – and in some cases – other places. In terms of our jobs as Peace Corps volunteers here, a project like this addresses the second goal of Peace Corps: To help promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of people served.

The event took place in two locations in as many days. The first day went well despite a few hiccups. Not all the PCVs made it for the first day, and some organization on our part could have been better worked out. The second day, however, things went rather smoothly. I’d even go as far as to say it was a success. A success because I truly believe we were able to portray our lives prior to coming to Ukraine in a way in which the students could understand, and because this second group of students was particularly interested in knowing about them. The student’s didn’t just ask questions from a prepared list; they asked follow-up questions. In one particular session I discussed locavorism with a young man who told me he’d recently slaughtered one of his family’s hogs, a conversation that began with him asking me, “So, do you like salo?” (Salo is cured pork fat and is a traditional Russian and Ukrainian food.) We discussed the benefits as well as downsides of farming at home and eating locally. An agreed upon benefit was we know where the food comes from, how it was raised or grown. A downside for him was in winter it’s hard to grow and raise food in Ukraine. Certain foods simply aren’t able to be grown between the months of October and April, and usually, in small towns like Shevchenkovo, it can’t be found in supermarkets either. There were plenty of other interesting conversations and questions, as well as loaded ones like, “How much do you love Jared Leto and 30 Seconds to Mars?” (In case you don’t know, they’re huge here in Ukraine. Them and Muse.)

In all, I’d say the project netted Sam some big points with his school, and some for Peace Corps, too. In the spirit of sharing, after the event we played basketball, volleyball and American football with some of the students.

The involved PCVs or "books", as well as Sam's counterpart on the far left.

A reporter from the local newspaper covered the event.

Some of us standing in front of our profiles, which were hung on the wall of the hallway in Sam's school prior to the event.

I showed students where Portland, Oregon is located on a map of the U.S.

Team Apples destroyed the competition.

Nov

28

Шахтер!


Donetsk’s $400 million Donbass Arena.

I spent most of today in Donetsk, a large eastern Ukrainian city of more than 1 million people about an hour and one-half south of Artemovsk. And I attended my first professional European football match between Donetsk’s team, Shakhtar, and one of the two Kiev teams, Arsenal. Shakhtar has a rich history dating back to 1936. Last year the owner built a new $400 million dollar stadium called Donbass Arena. It’s here that the 2012 European Championships will be held. Other games will be hosted at a new stadium currently being built in Kiev. Donbass Arena was built in great part to be able to host this event. And it really is incredible. In fact, it’s what Europe calls a five-star arena. It’s one of the very best.

Shakhtar (Шахтер), if you’re curious, means miners. Eastern Ukraine is a big mining area, though it once had a much more prominent mining industry than it does now. After the fall of the Soviet Union, many of the mines were closed. But some still remain in operation.


Inside Donbass Arena.

As I mentioned earlier, this was my first live professional football match I’ve been to in Europe. And now I’m hooked. Never in my life have I been much of a football fan. But watching it live can be rather exciting, especially in a place where it’s taken seriously and the camaraderie among fans runs deep. Listening and seeing the organized chants of devout fanatics gets my juices flowing. And being in an arena like Donbass helps quite a bit, too. I particularly loved the random shouts of “kakashka!” (piece of shit) in response to calls in favor of the opposing team. In the end, Shakhtar came out on top, winning handily 4-0.